Extremely boring post regarding the results of my recent humidity tests.

shilala

Elder Jungle Leader
I've been messing around with RH beads and other humidifying media for
the last month or two and came up with this RH beadstick idea among others...
http://www.clubstogie.com/vb/showthread.php?t=138682
I struggled with whether or not I'd mess around with them so far as to
offer them to the public, I was pretty content with just dropping them
in bombs and so forth.
Dball mentioned that they were ideal for what he does in a lot of
different ways, and that they'd be ideal in his traveling humi.

I can make up the beadsticks in any vitola (or at least get them
close), but it's a lot of tedious handwork and my arthritis makes it a
chore. It makes things slow, too.

Anyways...
I ran tests on a lot of different medias with a lot of different
additives.
The medias I use were Polyacrylamide (the gel like in drymistats) in two different sizes, four
different grades of RH beads, two different silica gel "chip shaped"
dessicants, and a type of bead called Molecular Beads.
I steeped the different medias in a bunch of different solutions.
The solutions I chose were off the shelf items that were food grade and
safe for use around my cigars. I didn't want anything near my cigars
that I wouldn't put in my mouth.
I used food grade propylene glycol,Magnesium chloride (salt), Sodium
Nitrate (food preservative, it's in your beef jerky), Potassium
Chloride (salt substitute for folks who can't use salt), and Sodium
Chloride (table salt)

If you count up those items, there are 14 items and a huge number of
combinations.

So I took to making up test subjects by combining salts and PG with all
the different test medias. I also used multiple combinations of salts
and pg to create different RH values.
What I found was that I could tweak any of the medias to hold any RH
value I wanted anywhere from 32% all the way up to 86%.

All I really wanted to know is how well any combination would work to
control humidity in my humidor, and how they would work in my
incubators, and other applications.
The reason I chose to use all food grade and the very purest of medias
is that for a lot of years I've provided incubators and humidity
control systems to labs, colleges, hatcheries, The UN's Food and
Agriculture Organization, and to poultry enthusiasts worldwide.
I've invented a couple temperature control systems that are used all
over the world in a number of different applications.

So I knew if I was to create something that was worthwhile, it'd have
to work across the board. I spent a lot of time speaking to overseas
manufacturers and the few major distributors of these products in the
States.
What I found out, across the board, is that none of them had done the
tests that I proposed. Dessicants (all the RH beads are exactly that)
are generally used for drawing moisture out of enclosed areas. They
are used widely in the shipping industry and in the electronics
industry. You know those little packets you find in your beef jerky
bags? I always thought they were Dessicant Packets. They're not.
They're oxygen scavengers. They suck oxygen out of the bag to keep the
jerky fresh.

Back on track...
Some tests were an absolute failure and some worked extremely well.
Rather than go into a metric ton of charts and test data, I worked out
something of a rating system.
I wanted to know how quickly the test subjects would pull humidity out
of the air, and how well they would let humidity back into the air.
It was pretty easy, actually.
All I needed was a see-through box with a divider and a couple
hygrometers. All the tests were done at one temperature, 70F.
Equal amounts of media by weight were used, arranged to expose an equal surface area by square inch. Some products had a distinct advantage because their shape created a much larger surface area per area. Such as beads are round, gel is chunky, while solutions were flat and silica gel chips were flat sided. This factored in heavily, making different shapes a better choice for our application in humidors, as well as in incubators.
I was concerned whether temperature would make a great difference, so I
did a couple quick mockups at 60F and 80F. The difference in reactivity
was negligable, so I was content to leave that alone.
Another thing I found out that went right across the board was that any
treatments I used with the media lessened their reactivity. If I added
salt to beads, they reacted slower. If I added PG to beads (I could
only do this with one grade of beads) it reacted slower.
So I threw out the idea of adding anything to beads.
I knew I could use these solutions to my advantage later, but I won't
get into that yet.

What I wanted to do was to come up with a simple number that would give
an easy means to gauge "how much of what" should I use to achieve the
same results? I scored the least responsive product at 1.0 and the most responsive product at 10.0.
It would also allow me a means to calculate expense quickly and easily.

Here follows the numbers I came up with...
Grade 1 chips 1.0
Grade 2 Chips 1.3
Size 1 Poly Gel 4.0
Size 2 Poly Gel 3.6
Grade 1 Beads 2.0
Grade 2 Beads 5.0
Grade 3 Beads 6.1
Grade 4 Beads 6.6
Grade 1 MBeads 10.0

I also did quickie tests on four different popular bead products and one gel product that are used in conservatory applications (museums) and in our humidors.
I found only one commonly used product scored very low, at 3.4.
Three scored in the 6.0 to 6.5 range.
There was one product that stood out at 7.4.
Regardless of the score, all the consumer bead products I tested were an excellent value as indicated by cost per product efficiency ratio excepting the one gel product. It would be of equal value if it was priced at 25% to 40% of it's current cost. Arranging the gel differently to provide more surface area would increase it's value.

I did find out one thing that's been debated heavily.
I tested the Kitty Litter that folks have gone on about.
It takes a little over 3 times the amount of Kitty Litter to do the job of one volume of any of the bead products we currently use.
One good thing about kitty litter is that it doesn't explode on contact with water. There's a reason why that is, but I'm not going into it because it's windy and very technical and boring. )The Molecular beads also do not explode when water hits them.
Suffice to say that if you have three pounds of litter in your humi covering 3 square feet of floor space, it will do the job of one pound of the RH beads covering one one square foot of floor space.
I don't have room in my humi or wine coolers for all those beads. I need to put cigars in there.
I've heard a lot of argument about the "quality" of kitty litter beads possibly being lower than that of the other RH beads. I spoke to the manufacturer (who coincidentally makes all the grades I used) and they are manufactured to identical specifications.

Another thing I found...
I found exactly ONE manufacturer of silica based beads in the world.
That was after chasing down each product through MSDS sheets and product ingredients. If there are any others I'd like to know about them. I also found only one manufacturer of the MRHbeads. They offer two different labratory grades of those beads, I choose the product with the smallest pores.

One last thing I found...
Once RHbeads have been in direct contact with water, explode and turn to powder, it's ability to perform in these tests decreased dramatically. It's because as a powder it's lost a great proportion of it's effective surface area. Although it still worked as intended, it lost a great deal of it's abilty to react quickly to humidity changes in it's environment, and lost a large amount of it's ability to hold water that can be made available to it's surrounding atmosphere, meaning it would not last nearly as long without needing to be reconditioned. As a result of these circumstances, powdered beads faired very poorly so I threw those results out of my test data.
Those tests results do say one thing to me. NEVER pour water directly on beads. It severely diminishes their capabilities. Use a conditioning bag or simply set a tray of water near the beads and be patient. It will prolong the life of your beads dramatically and increase their value exponentially.

In summary...
I have concepted about a dozen different products based on my tests.
I'm most excited about offering them in the lab and hatchery industries because I'm at home there and have been for almost 15 years.
The outlet is already there and I can help a lot of folks in a lot of different applications.
The cigar keeping addiction is new to me and it'll take awhile for me to apply what I've learned to keeping humidity in my humi and my wine coolers. I've guinea pigged my two wine coolers from the start and have tried a number of different things in my humi, all with varying results.
I've already developed a system of sorts that employs the RHbeads in stretch polyester fabric that works real well. I've created conditioning bags using polygel and a 51/49 PG solution for conditioning beadsticks at 70%. That combination yields a rock solid 69% RH in my far less than stellar leaky humidor.

In the next few days I will finish creating a 65% RH system.
I've narrowed down what I'm going to use, as well. I'll be using salts, PG Solution, polygel, distilled water, RHbeads and MHbeads. All the products are Food Grade or intrinsically safe to be used around my cigars. I'm incredibly anal about those sorts of things.

My main problem is that I only have so much time to devote to this as I'm busy working on lab and hatchery systems right now. It's the height of hatching season and soon the colleges and labs will be heavily involved in West Nile Virus testing, meaning just about every incubator in the United States will be fired up and struggling with humidity control.
I feel it's important to devote my efforts to those areas first, although I admit I'm having a lot more fun playing with my cigars. :D I can prepare humidor applications far more quickly because they are far less technically demanding.
In the coming weeks, I'll be able to offer some of the RHbeadsticks and MHbeadsticks, along with their corresponding conditioning bags.
I've already sent some out to some of the Gorillas here and I have some more prototypes made that I'll be sending out shortly.
I should be able to offer all the different systems at a very competitive prices at first, only getting better later once I can scope the volume. I may just bag the whole thing, because I don't know that I have the time to devote to all of this. I'm pretty much on the fence right now.
I do have the support of the leading dessicant distributor in the States, and they are excited about seeing my results, and are excited to see the tools I invent for conditioning bead products.
So I'm just going to take it a day at a time and see what happens.
I sure hope I didn't bore you all to tears!!!
Scott
 
Last edited:
Thank you for the time you have spent on this project. I look forward to the finished product.

Ryan
 
I've been messing around with RH beads and other humidifying media for
the last month or two and came up with this RH beadstick idea among others...
http://www.clubstogie.com/vb/showthread.php?t=138682
I struggled with whether or not I'd mess around with them so far as to
offer them to the public, I was pretty content with just dropping them
in bombs and so forth.
Dball mentioned that they were ideal for what he does in a lot of
different ways, and that they'd be ideal in his traveling humi.

I can make up the beadsticks in any vitola (or at least get them
close), but it's a lot of tedious handwork and my arthritis makes it a
chore. It makes things slow, too.

Anyways...
I ran tests on a lot of different medias with a lot of different
additives.
The medias I use were Polyacrylamide (the gel like in drymistats) in two different sizes, four
different grades of RH beads, two different silica gel "chip shaped"
dessicants, and a type of bead called Molecular Beads.
I steeped the different medias in a bunch of different solutions.
The solutions I chose were off the shelf items that were food grade and
safe for use around my cigars. I didn't want anything near my cigars
that I wouldn't put in my mouth.
I used food grade propylene glycol,Magnesium chloride (salt), Sodium
Nitrate (food preservative, it's in your beef jerky), Potassium
Chloride (salt substitute for folks who can't use salt), and Sodium
Chloride (table salt)

If you count up those items, there are 14 items and a huge number of
combinations.

So I took to making up test subjects by combining salts and PG with all
the different test medias. I also used multiple combinations of salts
and pg to create different RH values.
What I found was that I could tweak any of the medias to hold any RH
value I wanted anywhere from 32% all the way up to 86%.

All I really wanted to know is how well any combination would work to
control humidity in my humidor, and how they would work in my
incubators, and other applications.
The reason I chose to use all food grade and the very purest of medias
is that for a lot of years I've provided incubators and humidity
control systems to labs, colleges, hatcheries, The UN's Food and
Agriculture Organization, and to poultry enthusiasts worldwide.
I've invented a couple temperature control systems that are used all
over the world in a number of different applications.

So I knew if I was to create something that was worthwhile, it'd have
to work across the board. I spent a lot of time speaking to overseas
manufacturers and the few major distributors of these products in the
States.
What I found out, across the board, is that none of them had done the
tests that I proposed. Dessicants (all the RH beads are exactly that)
are not generally used for drawing moisture out of enclosed areas. They
are used widely in the shipping industry and in the electronics
industry. You know those little packets you find in your beef jerky
bags? I always thought they were Dessicant Packets. They're not.
They're oxygen scavengers. They suck oxygen out of the bag to keep the
jerky fresh.

Back on track...
Some tests were an absolute failure and some worked extremely well.
Rather than go into a metric ton of charts and test data, I worked out
something of a rating system.
I wanted to know how quickly the test subjects would pull humidity out
of the air, and how well they would let humidity back into the air.
It was pretty easy, actually.
All I needed was a see-through box with a divider and a couple
hygrometers. All the tests were done at one temperature, 70F.
Equal amounts of media by weight were used, arranged to expose an equal surface area by square inch. Some products had a distinct advantage because their shape created a much larger surface area per area. Such as beads are round, gel is chunky, while solutions were flat and silica gel chips were flat sided. This factored in heavily, making different shapes a better choice for our application in humidors, as well as in incubators.
I was concerned whether temperature would make a great difference, so I
did a couple quick mockups at 60F and 80F. The difference in reactivity
was negligable, so I was content to leave that alone.
Another thing I found out that went right across the board was that any
treatments I used with the media lessened their reactivity. If I added
salt to beads, they reacted slower. If I added PG to beads (I could
only do this with one grade of beads) it reacted slower.
So I threw out the idea of adding anything to beads.
I knew I could use these solutions to my advantage later, but I won't
get into that yet.

What I wanted to do was to come up with a simple number that would give
an easy means to gauge "how much of what" should I use to achieve the
same results? I scored the least responsive product at 1.0 and the most responsive product at 10.0.
It would also allow me a means to calculate expense quickly and easily.

Here follows the numbers I came up with...
Grade 1 chips 1.0
Grade 2 Chips 1.3
Size 1 Poly Gel 4.0
Size 2 Poly Gel 3.6
Grade 1 Beads 2.0
Grade 2 Beads 5.0
Grade 3 Beads 6.1
Grade 4 Beads 6.6
Grade 1 MBeads 10.0

I also did quickie tests on four different popular bead products and one gel product that are used in conservatory applications (museums) and in our humidors.
I found only one commonly used product scored very low, at 3.4.
Three scored in the 6.0 to 6.5 range.
There was one product that stood out at 7.4.
Regardless of the score, all the consumer bead products I tested were an excellent value as indicated by cost per product efficiency ratio excepting the one gel product. It would be of equal value if it was priced at 25% to 40% of it's current cost. Arranging the gel differently to provide more surface area would increase it's value.

I did find out one thing that's been debated heavily.
I tested the Kitty Litter that folks have gone on about.
It takes a little over 3 times the amount of Kitty Litter to do the job of one volume of any of the bead products we currently use.
One good thing about kitty litter is that it doesn't explode on contact with water. There's a reason why that is, but I'm not going into it because it's windy and very technical and boring. )The Molecular beads also do not explode when water hits them.
Suffice to say that if you have three pounds of litter in your humi covering 3 square feet of floor space, it will do the job of one pound of the RH beads covering one one square foot of floor space.
I don't have room in my humi or wine coolers for all those beads. I need to put cigars in there.
I've heard a lot of argument about the "quality" of kitty litter beads possibly being lower than that of the other RH beads. I spoke to the manufacturer (who coincidentally makes all the grades I used) and they are manufactured to identical specifications.

Another thing I found...
I found exactly ONE manufacturer of silica based beads in the world.
That was after chasing down each product through MSDS sheets and product ingredients. If there are any others I'd like to know about them. I also found only one manufacturer of the MRHbeads. They offer two different labratory grades of those beads, I choose the product with the smallest pores.

One last thing I found...
Once RHbeads have been in direct contact with water, explode and turn to powder, it's ability to perform in these tests decreased dramatically. It's because as a powder it's lost a great proportion of it's effective surface area. Although it still worked as intended, it lost a great deal of it's abilty to react quickly to humidity changes in it's environment, and lost a large amount of it's ability to hold water that can be made available to it's surrounding atmosphere, meaning it would not last nearly as long without needing to be reconditioned. As a result of these circumstances, powdered beads faired very poorly so I threw those results out of my test data.
Those tests results do say one thing to me. NEVER pour water directly on beads. It severely diminishes their capabilities. Use a conditioning bag or simply set a tray of water near the beads and be patient. It will prolong the life of your beads dramatically and increase their value exponentially.

In summary...
I have concepted about a dozen different products based on my tests.
I'm most excited about offering them in the lab and hatchery industries because I'm at home there and have been for almost 15 years.
The outlet is already there and I can help a lot of folks in a lot of different applications.
The cigar keeping addiction is new to me and it'll take awhile for me to apply what I've learned to keeping humidity in my humi and my wine coolers. I've guinea pigged my two wine coolers from the start and have tried a number of different things in my humi, all with varying results.
I've already developed a system of sorts that employs the RHbeads in stretch polyester fabric that works real well. I've created conditioning bags using polygel and a 51/49 PG solution for conditioning beadsticks at 70%. That combination yields a rock solid 69% RH in my far less than stellar leaky humidor.

In the next few days I will finish creating a 65% RH system.
I've narrowed down what I'm going to use, as well. I'll be using salts, PG Solution, polygel, distilled water, RHbeads and MHbeads. All the products are Food Grade or intrinsically safe to be used around my cigars. I'm incredibly anal about those sorts of things.

My main problem is that I only have so much time to devote to this as I'm busy working on lab and hatchery systems right now. It's the height of hatching season and soon the colleges and labs will be heavily involved in West Nile Virus testing, meaning just about every incubator in the United States will be fired up and struggling with humidity control.
I feel it's important to devote my efforts to those areas first, although I admit I'm having a lot more fun playing with my cigars. :D I can prepare humidor applications far more quickly because they are far less technically demanding.
In the coming weeks, I'll be able to offer some of the RHbeadsticks and MHbeadsticks, along with their corresponding conditioning bags.
I've already sent some out to some of the Gorillas here and I have some more prototypes made that I'll be sending out shortly.
I should be able to offer all the different systems at a very competitive prices at first, only getting better later once I can scope the volume. I may just bag the whole thing, because I don't know that I have the time to devote to all of this. I'm pretty much on the fence right now.
I do have the support of the leading dessicant distributor in the States, and they are excited about seeing my results, and are excited to see the tools I invent for conditioning bead products.
So I'm just going to take it a day at a time and see what happens.
I sure hope I didn't bore you all to tears!!!
Scott

i just wanted to be the first person to reply to the longest post ever. :r

but seriously- great post (yes I read the whole thing)
 
Scooter you know me, I love this boring shit. Thanks for the update mang.
You're one of the guinea pigs. Use that stuff and see what it does.
The PGgel bag is for conditioning the sticks I sent.
The sticks are already conditioned at 70%.
The PGgel bag is excellent for seasoning anything.
Give the stuff a whirl and see what you come up with. Let us know.
I want to hear good or bad. If it sucks, I'd love to hear "Hey, it sucks, and this is why".
I can only think up so many situational problems. The only way to fine tune an invention is to put it to real world use.
You're "real world use."
 
Very interesting. Looking forward to hearing more. Pictures would be greatly appreciated.

Kitty litter vindicated? Sam will be so proud. (He has 10 lbs of the stuff in his cab at home)
 
I've created conditioning bags using polygel and a 51/49 PG solution for conditioning beadsticks at 70%. That combination yields a rock solid 69% RH in my far less than stellar leaky humidor.

I remember discussing this in a different thread and I am still trying to understand. How can the silica beads be "conditioned?" I don't mean by what process can they be conditioned, I mean what is it about the process that causes them to be able to maintain the air above them at a particular humidity? Do they undergo some sort of physical change when placed in an environment which is contains air at a constant RH?

The more I think about these issues the more I realize I don't know! As a physics teacher I always try to understand things on a fundamental level and I think in this case I am lacking that perspective.
 
How do your beads compare to the Heartfelt rh beads? they come in cigar size tubes as well.
I won't be making any comparisons to any brands at all. It's unfair to do so, and it's unethical. At a later date I'll do the math on the products I've prepared and folks can make their own comparisons based on effectiveness per volume.
What I can say is that I did not use David's bead preparation in my tests.
I did use some other well known brands and as I mentioned in my thread, they were all an exceptional value so far as "bang for the buck" goes, saving the one gel product that faired poorly. Even that product has the potential to fair far better in my tests.
I have no reason to believe that Heartfelt beads are anything less than an exceptional value, and I've heard nothing but rave reviews of his beads.
Add to that his stellar service and reputation, and I feel that you cannot go wrong with any of his products, ever.
I've ordered a few thing from David myself and I can say without any reserve whatsoever that I am completely pleased with the high quality of him as a person and the high quality of his products.
 
Thanks for sharing your time and effort. It is good to hear from another source regarding the issue of directly applying water to certain types of commercial beads and the subsequent "snow" that results effectively rendering a smaller surface area thus reducing the efficiency. As you stated, patience is needed when re-hydrating certain silica gel beads. Along with the indirect application of water.

I also appreciate another perspective regarding the use of Kitty Liter silica bead-pearls. My testing concurs with your observations regarding the need for larger quantities for adequate effectiveness. Your sum of multiplying the resulting amount of the following formula by a factor of 3 is an invaluable offering.

Calculating the cubic area of your humi:
Measure the depth, width and height of you humi (example is 24” depth, 36” wide and 48” height)
Multiply the three; 24x36x48=41472 cubic inches
Divide 41472 by 1728 (number of cubic inches in a cubic foot) 41472/1728= 24 cubic feet
Divide the cubic feet by 5 (number of cubic feet per pound) 24/5 = 4.8
You would need 4.8 pounds of humidification beads for this humi.

As stated, where humi space is at a premium KL pearls may not be the best solution, but at under $2 a pound the economics are viable even when this $2 amount is properly multiplied by 3= $6.

Perhaps sometime we can have an exchange of ideas regarding the most effective way to condition the RH set point for KL beads. My methods are working with little effort but much time. :)

RG worthy indeed. :tu
 
You're one of the guinea pigs. Use that stuff and see what it does.
The PGgel bag is for conditioning the sticks I sent.
The sticks are already conditioned at 70%.
The PGgel bag is excellent for seasoning anything.
Give the stuff a whirl and see what you come up with. Let us know.
I want to hear good or bad. If it sucks, I'd love to hear "Hey, it sucks, and this is why".
I can only think up so many situational problems. The only way to fine tune an invention is to put it to real world use.
You're "real world use."

Yeh I already got RH beads in my humi and cooler. I stuck a few of those sticks in my roommate's humi because he's always having trouble with his leaky POS.
 
I remember discussing this in a different thread and I am still trying to understand. How can the silica beads be "conditioned?" I don't mean by what process can they be conditioned, I mean what is it about the process that causes them to be able to maintain the air above them at a particular humidity? Do they undergo some sort of physical change when placed in an environment which is contains air at a constant RH?

The more I think about these issues the more I realize I don't know! As a physics teacher I always try to understand things on a fundamental level and I think in this case I am lacking that perspective.
Let me see if I can explain the physical principle.
It'd be easier to use pictures, but I'll try to make this as simple as possible.

Imagine a big sealed box with air in it.
Along with the air, there is water vapor. Let's say that air is at 70% for sake of argument.
If I were to condense all the water vapor in that air into water, there would be a very small volume of water, right?

What a dessicant wants to do is to suck water vapor out of the air in that box and store it inside itself.
Different dessicants have a lesser or greater affinity for absorbtion based on their physical structure. (That's the principle I was testing for, along with "how much water can the beads, etc hold".)
That structure consists of tiny pores and tunnels throughout itself.
Some beads have bigger pores and have a lesser affinity for collecting water vapor, and smaller pores have a greater affinity just because there are far more pores available to suck water out of the air.

Now we have to consider "How much water is already in the beads?"
If my beads have zero water in them, they will suck up water as quickly as they possibly can. Dessicants are rated on that quality, plus how much water they can ultimately hold.

Now here's where your answer comes from...
Once beads have sucked all the water out of the air, they now have water in them. At the beginning they had no water whatsoever.
So now, at this point, the beads no longer can absorb water at their initial rate. They have lost some of their capacity for holding water because now they have water in them.
If I test the bead's RH around them, I may find it's raised to 2%.
Now if I introduce another volume of water vapor laced air inside that box we started with, the beads will suck all that water up, and now maybe they are at 3%.

This whole act that is going on is called "Equilibrium".
The beads want their stored water to be in equilibrium with the surrounding air.
This is an oversimplification, but a real easy explanation...
If the beads have absorbed 70% of the water that they are capable of holding, they will want the air around them to be holding 70% of the air that it can hold.
Think of equilibrium as harmony. The beads want all things to be equal.

The reason why beads can keep a closed area at a specific RH is a simple matter of volume.
If all the water volume in the box gets shrunk into water, it's only a very tiny amount of water. Maybe the size of a pin prick.
Now we have to think in ratios, because that's what effects equilibrium.
For sake of simplicity, I'll make up numbers here...
If we start at 70%RH inside the box and 1 pound of beads can hold 100 ounces of water, and there is 1 ounce of of water vapor in the air in the box, the beads can soak all that water up that was in the air, and it will only affect the water volume inside the beads by a very, very small amount. Now the beads would be 71% beads because that's where the ratio of equilibrium stands.

In actuality there is far less water in the air in the box. Therefore the beads can suck a heck of a lot of water out of air before their effectiveness diminishes in our application.

To condition beads at 70%RH, all I have to do is place them in an area that supplies a constant humidity of 70%. Eventually they will suck up all the water they need to reach equilibrium.

Now if i put those beads in a sealed bag and transfer them to another box that is say, 65%, they will give off their water to the air in order to find their happy equilibrium again.
If the area is small, they'll get it done quickly. If the area is too large, they may never get it done. I'm not going to change the RH of the Astrodome with a pound of beads, ya know?

That's why guys with calculators crunch numbers and ask "How big is the space you wish to condition?" They then use a formula that is based on net aggregates and takes into consideration all the real world situations.
That's why my rule of thumb is "Calculate how much you need, then order twice as much."
That way you can be reasonably assured that your sucky leaky humi will stay where you want it.
If you are using a super airtight cooler, wine cooler, or some other very tight storage box, you no longer need to double the amount of beads you buy.

Fizguy, if you have any more questions at all on how dessicants work, I'll be more than happy to help. :)
 
Here's the big kicker, tzaddi.
Pound for pound, the kitty litter is a third as effective per surface area.
So if I have a pound of a higher quality RHbeads in a 1 foot square bucket and three pounds of kitty litter beads in another 1 square foot bucket, I will still only get 1/3 the efficacy of any other RHbeads.
I would have to put those beads in 3 one foot square buckets at one pound each to reach the efficiency of one pound of RHbeads in one square foot bucket.
If my humi requires 3 pounds of RH beads over 3 square feet, I'd need 9 square feet for 9 pounds of litter for the same efficiency.
That is a megahuge drawback and creates an almost unworkable situation, especially in small incubators, oops, I meant humidors. You can see where my head is. :D
I have two bags of kitty litter in one of my wine coolers right now.
They take up an entire shelf and weigh 84.3 ounces.
They don't work nearly as well as one pound of MHbeads that take up the space of 16 Torpedos.
That is a huge difference.
What worries me is folks will not make the surface area connection and continue speading disinformation.
The stuff works, but it's not much of a value, all things considered, and it will take up an amazing amount of humi space to get the job done properly.
So the bottom line is yes, it works. Yes, it's safe and sanitary and of good quality, but it takes up too much space and doesn't work well.
Believe you me, I hoped for it to fair far better cause I don't want to pay 30 bucks a pound for beads. :D


Thanks for sharing your time and effort. It is good to hear from another source regarding the issue of directly applying water to certain types of commercial beads and the subsequent "snow" that results effectively rendering a smaller surface area thus reducing the efficiency. As you stated, patience is needed when re-hydrating certain silica gel beads. Along with the indirect application of water.

I also appreciate another perspective regarding the use of Kitty Liter silica bead-pearls. My testing concurs with your observations regarding the need for larger quantities for adequate effectiveness. Your sum of multiplying the resulting amount of the following formula by a factor of 3 is an invaluable offering.



As stated, where humi space is at a premium KL pearls may not be the best solution, but at under $2 a pound the economics are viable even when this $2 amount is properly multiplied by 3= $6.

Perhaps sometime we can have an exchange of ideas regarding the most effective way to condition the RH set point for KL beads. My methods are working with little effort but much time. :)

RG worthy indeed. :tu
 
you shipped me one of your conditioning tubes of sausage. So...panty hose as an edible product? :p

Just teasing. How do I recharge the gel? Is it purely distilled water?

I will now stop spraying my beads with distilled water to 'recharge' them but instead provide a medium (ie panty hose full of gel) in the same environment to transfer/charge the beads. Is my thinking right?

If so...I need to obtain more of the sausage-y panty hose gel!
 
You talk a lot about how your test removes water out of the closed environment. Have you done and testing of the reverse? I'm curious which type of product is good/great at releasing humidity and which is good/great at removing humidity. Is there a product that is good at both?

I understand there is a level of effectiveness over time as well as how effective a product can be at supplying humidity over a certain period...ie bring it from 50RH to 65RH....so on and so forth.

Your work is awesome. I don't know if I would have the patience to do your testing. Man..can you imagine this being a science fair project for some kid in school?
 
Looking forward to reading some updates. Very interesting.
Be forewarned, this stuff is very wordy.
It ain't very sexy, either.
I have found that the pricepoints of the RHbeads and MHbeads should be very competitive. The kicker is that they will require a little bit of user interacting. It's not a "throw and go" solution.
The tradeoff for a little eductaion and a little time is a much longer lasting product and a greater understanding of how to care for our precious cigars. :)
I understand that not everyone has time for diddling around, so I'm working to streamline the whole process to make it as painless as possible.
Here's what it looks like...

Directions
1.) Put RHbeadsticks in Humi.
2.) Do nothing for a week.
3.) Check RH%
4.) If it's off, high or low, put conditioning bag in humi for a week.
5.) Do nothing for a week.
6.) Remove conditioning bag.
7.) In 24 hours check RH%.
8.) If it's within 1 or 2%, leave it alone. If not, put bag back in. If it's good, you're done.
9.) After a week, remove bag.
10.) In 24 hours, check RH%.
11.) Repeat bag in and out till you're where you want to be.

Granted, all this requires a good calibrated hygrometer that I've salt tested myself. There's no sense in even using any humidifying anything if I don't have a decent hygrometer.
I use three hygrometers that I bought from David at Heartfelt.
They kick ass.
 
This is an oversimplification, but a real easy explanation...
If the beads have absorbed 70% of the water that they are capable of holding, they will want the air around them to be holding 70% of the air that it can hold.
Think of equilibrium as harmony. The beads want all things to be equal.

This is the part I don't understand. I understand the concept of equilibrium but I am not convinced of the rest. I will do some more reading. Thanks for the reply though! Any articles you can refer me to will be appreciated.
 
Yup. The pantyhose are edible. I've chewed through a few pair in my time and I've never suffered any ill effects whatsoever.
Just make sure you don't swallow the whole deal at once. That might strangulate your guts.
That sausage I sent you is simply polygel and distilled water.
There is no control medium in it at all.
It will work just like setting a pan of distilled water in your humi.
If left in too long it will make your environment go to 100%, so you want to take it in and out of your humi, testing the rh as you go.
You can recharge the gel by putting it in distilled water and letting it sit overnight. When you pull it out let it sit in a colander to drain off for a couple hours.
you shipped me one of your conditioning tubes of sausage. So...panty hose as an edible product? :p

Just teasing. How do I recharge the gel? Is it purely distilled water?

I will now stop spraying my beads with distilled water to 'recharge' them but instead provide a medium (ie panty hose full of gel) in the same environment to transfer/charge the beads. Is my thinking right?

If so...I need to obtain more of the sausage-y panty hose gel!
 
Yes, my understanding from the initial read was correct.

Where physical humi or incubator :))) space is at a premium then the KL silica gel beads are not a viable solution. Where space allows such as a huge cooler then KL silica gel beads are the economical choice hands down.

1 lbs of museum quality silica gel beads $25- $30
3 lbs of Kitty Liter silica gel beads $6 + the time and effort to condition them. :)

Once again thanks, "now let's talk about chicks man." :)

Here's the big kicker, tzaddi.
Pound for pound, the kitty litter is a third as effective per surface area.
So if I have a pound of a higher quality RHbeads in a 1 foot square bucket and three pounds of kitty litter beads in another 1 square foot bucket, I will still only get 1/3 the efficacy of any other RHbeads.
I would have to put those beads in 3 one foot square buckets at one pound each to reach the efficiency of one pound of RHbeads in one square foot bucket.
If my humi requires 3 pounds of RH beads over 3 square feet, I'd need 9 square feet for 9 pounds of litter for the same efficiency.
That is a megahuge drawback and creates an almost unworkable situation, especially in small incubators, oops, I meant humidors. You can see where my head is. :D
I have two bags of kitty litter in one of my wine coolers right now.
They take up an entire shelf and weigh 84.3 ounces.
They don't work nearly as well as one pound of MHbeads that take up the space of 16 Torpedos.
That is a huge difference.
What worries me is folks will not make the surface area connection and continue speading disinformation.
The stuff works, but it's not much of a value, all things considered, and it will take up an amazing amount of humi space to get the job done properly.
So the bottom line is yes, it works. Yes, it's safe and sanitary and of good quality, but it takes up too much space and doesn't work well.
Believe you me, I hoped for it to fair far better cause I don't want to pay 30 bucks a pound for beads. :D
 
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