How to properly freeze cigars?

:confused:
Wouldn't that be the one thing you would want to freeze?

Why? I mean, I understand that it's vintage, but being a tubo it should be in a metal or plastic tube, so the beetles shouldn't be able to get out. If it's a wooden tube, could be the beetles chew through that?
 
Why? I mean, I understand that it's vintage, but being a tubo it should be in a metal or plastic tube, so the beetles shouldn't be able to get out. If it's a wooden tube, could be the beetles chew through that?

If the cap is left on, you are correct. But I was thinking more in terms of saving the cigar itself - not infesting others.
 
Icehog... you are the man. Thanks for the helpful info. I can truly say you are my favorite Admiral Douche Bag. :ss :tu

(no dancing chickens were used in the making of this post)
 
Also thanks due to Galaga for the dry ice trick which works great and is far less laber intensive.
 
Cigar Beetle eggs can be killed by exposure to temperatures easily obtainable by home refrigerators/freezers. An industrial deep freeze is not required, as rumor has indicated.

I'm curious to hear what basis there is for that statement. Most tobacco companies these days, even Habanos SA now, freezes their cigars in a commercial freezer before they leave the gate. As such it isn't as big of an issues as it used to be.

Anyway, this is from a cigar manufacturer:

.....

Gentlemen,

Unless you are using a commercial type freezer that can reach temperatures of -40 degrees, freezing your cigars is, well, like using duct tape to patch a garden hose leak. In other words this is a temporary fix. I know this from personal experience and research over the years. Larvae can survive extended periods of exposure to temperatures of 0 degrees just fine. Even with professional fumigation and/or commercial freezing, you are still rolling the dice. It could just be a matter of time and luck. The "safe time frame" really depends on what degree of fumigation (read: GAS) was done to the cigars before they left the factory and also on what type of tobacco you're dealing with; because certain tobaccos are far more prone to infestation. A professional fumigation will only assure a 12-18 month safety window. Sorry, but that's the reality. AS I mentioned, keep in mind that certain tobaccos are more prone to larvae than others, but, that's another subject. The reality is that ALL cigar tobacco veins are home to microscopic beetle larvae, I don't care what cigar brand is involved. I repeat, ALL tobacco has dormant microscopic larvae in the juice of the veins. So, between the time the cigars leave the factory to the time you receive them, chances are that along the way somewhere, the cigars may have been exposed to an unfortunate but optimum temp/humidity level which is the perfect hatching environment. This "perfect" environment is usually created around 75 degrees and 75% humidity. In this environment larvae will awaken, hatch, an now start their quest to burrow out of the cigar in search of water. This may only have affected 1 cigar out of thousand, but if you happen to get THAT cigar, it's enough to cause an outbreak for you. And unfortunately it can take weeks or months before you notice any outwardly signs of an impending infestation. This is a problem that we manufacturers face every single day.

If you follow the following course of action, you will be one step ahead of a possible disaster. Regularly inspect every single cigar in every single box you are keeping in your humidors. The best way to do this is to get a piece of bright white paper and gently tap the foot of all the cigars, one by one, over the paper. If you see microscopic "dust like" particles (not small pieces of tobacco) peppering the paper, you can be absolutely certain that you have an infected cigar, or worse yet, cigars. You can also be certain that you will soon have a major outbreak. This is the first stage of an infestation. This early warning technique will save you a lot of heartache and will give you the ability to immediately pull any infected cigar or cigars, which by the way, are still very smokeable at this point. The other cigars in close proximity to a compromised cigar may or may not have been infected. Usually the infection starts with one cigar because only one beetle has hatched and immediately starts munching on neighboring cigars, thus the appearance of the dreaded "hole". This of course is a best case scenario. However, if cigars of the same batch or in the same box have traveled together (let's say in a box of 20 or 25) chances are that you can expect several, if not all, of those cigars to be affected. Now, the problem has become exponential. So, don't wait until you find those dreaded holes with scores of little bastards having lunch at your the expense of your hard earned money. I hope this helps. Good Luck.

Cheers,

Gael
 
From CW:

Cigar Beetle eggs can be killed by exposure to temperatures easily obtainable by home refrigerators/freezers. An industrial deep freeze is not required, as rumor has indicated.

There is a direct correlation between the time it takes to kill and temperature. The colder the temp, the shorter it takes to kill eggs.

The figures below are time to kill 95% (abbreviated LT95) of eggs exposed to the environment. Keep this in mind when applying these figures to cigars because 1) we want to kill 100% of eggs and 2) any eggs inside our cigars have a thick layer of insulating tobacco that must be cooled before the eggs will reach that temperature.

5c (41f) requires ~12 days (275 hours)
0c (32f) requires ~9 days (220 hours)
-5c (23f) requires ~4 days (100 hours)
-10c (14f) requires less than 24 hours
-15c (5f) requires less than 24 hours
-20c (-4f) requires less than 24 hours


The length of time you should freeze your cigars depends on the temperature your freezer is at. I highly recommend that everyone using their freezer to treat cigars keeps a fridge/freezer thermometer in there so they know roughly what temp range their freezer runs at. These are available at most grocery stores, usually with baking supplies. From experience I have seen home freezers that run anywhere from 1 degree below freezing to as low as -25c.
Right now I am trying to get data on how long it takes a cigar to go from room temp to 5c, and from 5c to -20c. Based on data from other consumables I estimate it would take a cigar at least 24 hours to reach the same temperature as the freezer (equilibrium) when it is moved into the freezer from the refrigerator. Based on this alone one should add 24 hours to amount of time cigars are kept in the freezer.
The times given above are to kill 95% of eggs. I have not found times required to kill 99.9% of eggs but doubling the LT95 for that temperature should be more than sufficient.

IN SUMMARY

Double bag your cigars and let them spend 24 hours in the refrigerator. I think everyone agrees that this gives the cigars a safe transition from room temp to near freezing. Move the cigars into the freezer. How long they should stay there depends on your freezer temp. If it is below -10c 72 hours in the freezer should be sufficient. That's 24 hours to get the cigars to -10c, 24 hours to kill 95% of eggs, and an extra 24 hours for good measure. When coming out of the freezer it is a good idea to let the cigars spend 24 hours in the fridge, and another 24 hours at room temp STILL SEALED IN THE BAGS. This protects the cigars from rapid changes in temp/humidity.

I know there are some out there who prefer to avoid freezing because of potential damage to cigars and the rest period required afterwards. The time required will vary greatly based upon the temp of your fridge. Keep in mind the temp will also fluctuate based on door opening/closing etc. (Although this occurs in the freezer, it is less of an issue due to the comparatively short time required) With an LT95 of 12 days at 5c I would personally keep cigars in there for at least 3 weeks.

This information should be applied to uninfested cigars for prevention of a beetle outbreak. If you have cigars that are infested or you know have been exposed to beetles they should be subjected to more lengthy treatment because they will presumably have far more eggs present than any uninfested cigars that picked up some eggs during manufacture.

A bump if anyone else was looking. Found a beetle hole in an arriving cigar today. :mad: To the freezer they go.
 
After reading all this, wow, I still have never personally had any problems with beetles or eggs. I've kept some cigars in my humidor for up to 3 years and never had a problem. Maybe they are pre-freezed these days, don't know, but is it really a big deal if I don't freeze them?
 
From CW:

Cigar Beetle eggs can be killed by exposure to temperatures easily obtainable by home refrigerators/freezers. An industrial deep freeze is not required, as rumor has indicated.

There is a direct correlation between the time it takes to kill and temperature. The colder the temp, the shorter it takes to kill eggs.

The figures below are time to kill 95% (abbreviated LT95) of eggs exposed to the environment. Keep this in mind when applying these figures to cigars because 1) we want to kill 100% of eggs and 2) any eggs inside our cigars have a thick layer of insulating tobacco that must be cooled before the eggs will reach that temperature.

5c (41f) requires ~12 days (275 hours)
0c (32f) requires ~9 days (220 hours)
-5c (23f) requires ~4 days (100 hours)
-10c (14f) requires less than 24 hours
-15c (5f) requires less than 24 hours
-20c (-4f) requires less than 24 hours


The length of time you should freeze your cigars depends on the temperature your freezer is at. I highly recommend that everyone using their freezer to treat cigars keeps a fridge/freezer thermometer in there so they know roughly what temp range their freezer runs at. These are available at most grocery stores, usually with baking supplies. From experience I have seen home freezers that run anywhere from 1 degree below freezing to as low as -25c.
Right now I am trying to get data on how long it takes a cigar to go from room temp to 5c, and from 5c to -20c. Based on data from other consumables I estimate it would take a cigar at least 24 hours to reach the same temperature as the freezer (equilibrium) when it is moved into the freezer from the refrigerator. Based on this alone one should add 24 hours to amount of time cigars are kept in the freezer.
The times given above are to kill 95% of eggs. I have not found times required to kill 99.9% of eggs but doubling the LT95 for that temperature should be more than sufficient.

IN SUMMARY

Double bag your cigars and let them spend 24 hours in the refrigerator. I think everyone agrees that this gives the cigars a safe transition from room temp to near freezing. Move the cigars into the freezer. How long they should stay there depends on your freezer temp. If it is below -10c 72 hours in the freezer should be sufficient. That's 24 hours to get the cigars to -10c, 24 hours to kill 95% of eggs, and an extra 24 hours for good measure. When coming out of the freezer it is a good idea to let the cigars spend 24 hours in the fridge, and another 24 hours at room temp STILL SEALED IN THE BAGS. This protects the cigars from rapid changes in temp/humidity.

I know there are some out there who prefer to avoid freezing because of potential damage to cigars and the rest period required afterwards. The time required will vary greatly based upon the temp of your fridge. Keep in mind the temp will also fluctuate based on door opening/closing etc. (Although this occurs in the freezer, it is less of an issue due to the comparatively short time required) With an LT95 of 12 days at 5c I would personally keep cigars in there for at least 3 weeks.

This information should be applied to uninfested cigars for prevention of a beetle outbreak. If you have cigars that are infested or you know have been exposed to beetles they should be subjected to more lengthy treatment because they will presumably have far more eggs present than any uninfested cigars that picked up some eggs during manufacture.

My God......I think I will just take my chances. Yikes.
 
Maybe they are pre-freezed these days, don't know, but is it really a big deal if I don't freeze them?

Yes, they are frozen before they are shipped to retailers but that doesn't stop them all of the time. No, it's not a big deal you don't freeze until you get one. Then you may feel differently. I do it for peice of mind.
 
This will actually be the first time I ever froze my sticks, but of the 50 cigars I received today, after close inspection, one stick had larvae holes chewed through and the "tap test" resulted in the powdery residue. I tap tested the others from that group and none seemed infected. Needless to say I chucked one and am freezing 49....well actually 48, I'm smoking one OTT as I type :ss.
 
I've been using the 1 day refer, 3 day freezer, 1 day refer, 1 day sitting out method ever since I had an infestation, and I've had no more problems. I've done this with all incoming cigars I get...gifts, trades, NC/C purchases...everything. Too hot down here to trust anything.

Begin thread hijack:
We use the term "beetles", but is it actually the beetle that eats a hole out of the cigar? I was thinking it was actually the beetle larva that are responsible for the holes - then eventually they turn into a beetle. I never saw any beetle bodies when I disected my infected sticks is why I ask. I was thinking I caught mine before they could develope fully into a beetle???
End thread hijack
I actually found a live beetle in my humi a month ago! I've kept the RH at 65, but the temperature crept up to 75 degrees in the summer heat in my house. I then noticed several "beetle holes" in one of my sticks. Put everything including the humi in the freezer after killing the beetle and everything seems to be "OK" now. Be very diligent as to maintaining RH below 70 and, if possible, Temperature below 75! Check your smokes daily!:tu
 
I actually found a live beetle in my humi a month ago! I've kept the RH at 65, but the temperature crept up to 75 degrees in the summer heat in my house. I then noticed several "beetle holes" in one of my sticks. Put everything including the humi in the freezer after killing the beetle and everything seems to be "OK" now. Be very diligent as to maintaining RH below 70 and, if possible, Temperature below 75! Check your smokes daily!:tu

The RH is not the watch out, at least for beetles, its the temp. I would personally recommend keeping the temp below 70. I keep mine at around 62-64F.

The other thing that many don't consider is that larvae could have hatched in transit. Just because you have a temp controlled humi doesn't mean you're safe from beetles.

It is really NO big deal to freeze. Bag'em, fridge, freezer, fridge back in the humi. Sometimes I skip the last fridge step and never had a problem. Peace of mind is priceless.

Everyone wishes they had insurance after the accident.
 
This will actually be the first time I ever froze my sticks, but of the 50 cigars I received today, after close inspection, one stick had larvae holes chewed through and the "tap test" resulted in the powdery residue. I tap tested the others from that group and none seemed infected. Needless to say I chucked one and am freezing 49....well actually 48, I'm smoking one OTT as I type :ss.

Follow up to my situation...

I shot an e-mail to the vendor the beetle stick came from, genuinely not looking for anything, simply advising them of the problem. A very courteous reply came saying that if, upon further inspection, anything else looked damaged to let them know and return them for an exchange or refund. That's the good news. :tu

Unfortunately, this was part of the reply as well "Typically you will see the bug damage when the cigars are over humidified or in a moist environment."

This is a major retailer. It's a shame they're not better informed.
 
I think along with the useful info on freezing already provided, it's important to be aware of repair techniques for sticks that have been damaged. A repaired stick can be returned to reasonably useful condition with cigar glue (pectin) and a wrapper from a donor cigar, so all is not lost if you have a modest infestation. I've seen jungle threads covering the techniques involved, but it seems like the one problem of bugs slides handily into the next topic of "repair."

Maybe someone wants to talk about repair, sources of unflavored pectin and the like?
 
I used to freeze everything, I have a freezer that gets down to -20. Then I moved things up a bit to save me some time and worry.

I bought temperature controlled storage and connected it to a 24 hour UPS system. The UPS stuff was in the house when I bought it so it came for free. The temperature controlled storage can be cheap (vinotemps) or expensive (Aristocrats). I’ve done both and they both have advantages. For my money its worth the piece of mind because I worry what the value of my house will be when I sell, I worry if I’m doing everything I possibly can to make my family comfortable and happy, I even worry that my wife will connect the $$$ that leave the house via ****** and CC to cigars. But I never, and I mean NEVER, actually worry about my cigars themselves. And that lack of worry is worth its weight in gold.
 
I used to freeze everything, I have a freezer that gets down to -20. Then I moved things up a bit to save me some time and worry.

I bought temperature controlled storage and connected it to a 24 hour UPS system. The UPS stuff was in the house when I bought it so it came for free. The temperature controlled storage can be cheap (vinotemps) or expensive (Aristocrats). I’ve done both and they both have advantages. For my money its worth the piece of mind because I worry what the value of my house will be when I sell, I worry if I’m doing everything I possibly can to make my family comfortable and happy, I even worry that my wife will connect the $$$ that leave the house via ****** and CC to cigars. But I never, and I mean NEVER, actually worry about my cigars themselves. And that lack of worry is worth its weight in gold.

As I said in my earlier post, temp control will keep larvae from hatching, but not kill beetles that have hatched. I have temp controlled storage and still freeze. You don't know if packages have sat in hot warehouses or shipping trucks between transit points.

Peace of mind to me is take every precaution I can. Freeze and then temp controlled storage does it for me.
 
I do freeze all my incoming cigars although I must admit I was not as anal as some of you about it in terms of the procedure used. Still, I never got a single cracked wrapper or dried out cigar. I usually freeze 24-48 hours and have no idea how cold my fridge is.

This works well on the cigars. But the really important thing is to also freeze the boxes. Especially, if you are going from normal humidors in which you didn't use the boxes but kept the frozen cigars directly in the humi to something like a vinotemp where you get temperature control but you use the boxes. You put your frozen (i.e. clean) cigars into their original boxes and put those boxes into your vino or aristocrat humi. Looks great, huh? Well, you better make sure you freeze those boxes before you put the cigars back in there because the boxes carry larvae, too.

Till
 
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