Is there a Bad wood in a Vino?

[JSGrewal]

So I bought a Vino, and will be making or buying shelves and drawers etc out of Spanish Cedar. I was thinking it might look good to cover the front of the drawers/ shelves with a different wood- zebrawood, maple, etc. Keep in mind this is just for cosmetic and will not physically touch the stogies in any way ( there will still be cedar lining like a humi).

Is this a bad thing? I know regular humis are made that way, but the other wood isnt actually sharing airspace with the stogies- its outside. Will this other wood contaminate the flavors?

Any thoughts?
:chk

 

[Darrell]

I don't see any problem with it, just don't use any scented woods.

 

[Only Fuentes]

I would give Bob Staebell at aristocrat a call. www.aristocrathumidors.com He has quite a few examples of drawers with different wood facing on them. I think that it shouldn't be a problem provided you use a hardwood and make sure it is poly'd well.

 

[Mtmouse]

Just watch if you are adding a finish to them. Remember, humidors have finishes on them, but the finish is on the outside; yours would actually be inside with the cigars, so any 'off-gassing' would be locked in with the cigars.

 

[ChasDen]

Just watch if you are adding a finish to them. Remember, humidors have finishes on them, but the finish is on the outside; yours would actually be inside with the cigars, so any 'off-gassing' would be locked in with the cigars.

I have been messing around with this. I have tried several "clear" finishes and everyone of them are leaving a smell after being in the Vino for about 24 to 48 hours. I have only tried wood that has sat for 14 days so it may just need more time before I put it in there. At this point it has all been tested on Oak. So if you can use unfinished wood that may be the best. I would think any hardwood would hold up ok long term. Maybe someone who has done it will chime in.

Chas

 

[Virginia Gent]

Perhaps burnishing the wood with a piece of chromed steel or a salad oil finish would be a better way to go with your project.

 

[DonnieW]

So I bought a Vino, and will be making or buying shelves and drawers etc out of Spanish Cedar. I was thinking it might look good to cover the front of the drawers/ shelves with a different wood- zebrawood, maple, etc. Keep in mind this is just for cosmetic and will not physically touch the stogies in any way ( there will still be cedar lining like a humi).

Is this a bad thing? I know regular humis are made that way, but the other wood isnt actually sharing airspace with the stogies- its outside. Will this other wood contaminate the flavors?

Any thoughts?
:chk

Whatever you do, don't use veneer. While veneer itself is a safe alternative to using cuts of the wood due to the obvious difference in thickness, the adhesives generally never finish off-gassing. There are adhesives that are specifically meant to curb their odor, but there are hard to come by and quite frankly are inferior to god old contact cement.

 

[Footbag]

You've got a great idea. The only thing I will say is that you will most likely have a period of 3 months where the drawer front will still be giving off a smell. Possibly longer.
Veneer's are likely to check and craze, so may be a bit risky.
If, and this is a big if, you can find an old solid mahogony or Kingwood or Ebony Macasser door, you may be able to re-fashion it into what you're thinking.
I've done this with a number of things as I work in the furniture business and come accross rare and endangered woods frequently. I try and recycle them into something.
Great project!

 

[germantown rob]

Whatever you do, don't use veneer. While veneer itself is a safe alternative to using cuts of the wood due to the obvious difference in thickness, the adhesives generally never finish off-gassing. There are adhesives that are specifically meant to curb their odor, but there are hard to come by and quite frankly are inferior to god old contact cement.

This in general is probably sound advice but take a look at some of your wood boxes of cigars, many lids are veneers.

 

[DonnieW]

This in general is probably sound advice but take a look at some of your wood boxes of cigars, many lids are veneers.

Oh, dude you're absolutely right. Shit, even Cuban Crafters uses veneered MDF for their little trays - amazing how that thin sheet of veneer can smell so much. Because they press-form their shelves they can use glue sparingly. Based on my trying to take apart one of their shelves, I'd say they're not using contact cement but rather glue. If you want to glue something, Titebond III Ultimate is a great choice as its foodsafe and stink free - this is the only glue to use in a humidor.

 

[SilverFox]

I have been messing around with this. I have tried several "clear" finishes and everyone of them are leaving a smell after being in the Vino for about 24 to 48 hours. I have only tried wood that has sat for 14 days so it may just need more time before I put it in there. At this point it has all been tested on Oak. So if you can use unfinished wood that may be the best. I would think any hardwood would hold up ok long term. Maybe someone who has done it will chime in.

Chas

Typical full cure for any clear wood finish would be 30 to 60 days depending on temp and RH so 2 weeks would be nowhere long enough for the smell to be gone. Just my 2 cents

 

[germantown rob]

Oh, dude you're absolutely right. Shit, even Cuban Crafters uses veneered MDF for their little trays - amazing how that thin sheet of veneer can smell so much. Because they press-form their shelves they can use glue sparingly. Based on my trying to take apart one of their shelves, I'd say they're not using contact cement but rather glue. If you want to glue something, Titebond III Ultimate is a great choice as its foodsafe and stink free - this is the only glue to use in a humidor.

Strength is in laminating! Agree with Titebond or even Elmors water resistant glue are quality stuff that has proven themselves to a carpenter over many years of use. They are water solvable and don't put off any vapors.

Finishes are vary different, even varnish I would be leary of inside a humidor and oil finishes put off fumes that would add flavor to cigars. I would look at what the pros do with the inside of humidors...el natural:tu

 

[ChasDen]

Typical full cure for any clear wood finish would be 30 to 60 days depending on temp and RH so 2 weeks would be nowhere long enough for the smell to be gone. Just my 2 cents

Just a follow up if anyone reads this later, I now have tested a piece 30 days old and after 4 days there is no smell.

So with the proper curing time I feel safe putting it in the vino.

Chas

 

[DonnieW]

Just a follow up if anyone reads this later, I now have tested a piece 30 days old and after 4 days there is no smell.

So with the proper curing time I feel safe putting it in the vino.

Chas

Certain commercial finishes such as urethanes, etc. can be used with proper cure time (though not all of them will be smell-free). Personally I wouldn't chance it - it can still emit fumes if warmed up and it does not seal wood from emitting its own scents.

If you want a truly SAFE finish there is only one - shellac. It is a completely natural product, non-toxic, foodsafe, and scent free. It has an exceptional finish that many woodworkers feel is superior to anything else. It is also used to seal wood (etc), so that the wood itself cannot put out any scent. Many will recognize shellac as the coating on our cigar boxes. It is a breeze to work with, almost goof-proof. I highly recommend it for anyone who is considering a finish on the inside of a humidor, whether it’s the humidor itself or accessories.

For those interested, here is what I use on the stuff I build (btw its cheap too):

 

[mmblz]

Some wineries put oak chips in the barrel while the wine is aging, to impart a taste as if it was in a more expensive oak barrel. This often results in an exaggerated oak flavor.

 

[ChasDen]

For those interested, here is what I use on the stuff I build (btw its cheap too):

Thats the exact product I switched to. I first tested Minwax urethane and it provided a very nice high gloss finish but was a real pain to work with in the cool damp air. I switched to varnish and that was better to work with but was not happy with the finish. I asked a couple of painters at a job site and they all said use Shellac. I did the last piece with it and love the look and the ease of use. Now I just need to get building.

Chas

 

[DonnieW]

Thats the exact product I switched to. I first tested Minwax urethane and it provided a very nice high gloss finish but was a real pain to work with in the cool damp air. I switched to varnish and that was better to work with but was not happy with the finish. I asked a couple of painters at a job site and they all said use Shellac. I did the last piece with it and love the look and the ease of use. Now I just need to get building.

Chas

Good Choice!

You can even wet sand it between coats. It puts out a luxurious sheen that can't be matched by urethanes - which tend to look plastic-like.